All of our Motorsport brake pad products (including karting brake pads) are made from our blend of ‘secret ingredients and high end materials and, including Kevlar®.

Our unique ‘mix’ of unique materials are allowing us to be one of the most competitive brake manufacturers, especially within the motorsport high performance industry.

This unique composition of Frixa if used correctly, allows our brake products to withstand the wear and tear that high performance  friction creates. With their enhanced thermal stability and inherent abrasion resistance, reinforced brake pads of Kevlar® are designed for long life and safe, low dust emmision and quieter braking. 

  • Kevlar® staple and floc are short-fiber versions suitable for textile applications, and for reinforcement of thermoplastic and thermoset matrices.
  • Kevlar® aramid pulp is a fibrillated short fiber widely used in most friction and sealing applications.

The frictional forces that brake pads are designed to endure take less ‘’punisment’’on Frixa brake pads made with Kevlar® pulp. The enhanced thermal stability and inherent abrasion resistance of brake pads reinforced with Kevlar® pulp helps allow them to last longer and continues to produce high energy performance levels to the end of the pad life. (2mm minimum)


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                                                                                 MOST READ PAGE IN THE INDUSTRY

           Bedding In Frixa brake pad materia                                                                                    Glazed brake pads???

1. Off Track Pre-Bedding in 'Housekeeping'

That the brake disc is free from old brake pad material. Old residue must be thoroughly cleaned out of the disc surfaces with brake cleaner and using a wire brush or wire wool. Do not clean the disc with emery paper or graphite based paper as it will impregnate into the steel pores and destroy the new pad

That the Inside of the caliper is cleaned thoroughly of old brake dust deposits. Use brake cleaner and a small brush, a hard bristle toothbrush is ideal.At any time never allow the brake cleaner to come into contact with the brake pad material, whether the pads are new or used

When installing new brake pads use a ‘latex’ glove as this will prevent grease residue transfer from your hands to the new brake pads.Making sure each pad is secured within the caliper as per the manufacturer’s instructions

And finally
Once installation is complete, is the brake disc perfectly aligned with an even distance between the both pads and the disc. By pumping the brake pedal a few times to ensure the pads return evenly

2. Follow this simple procedure on the track – Over 4 Laps

An initial safety check as you join  the track and at very slow speed and where it is safe stop the kart very briefly to ensure there are no mechanical defects,brake fluid loss or a strong brake pedal.Don’t forget you have new brake pads and you will feel minimal response whilst braking for the first time so please be aware of your speed and position on the circuit as your brake will not be functioning fully at this point.

The first 2 laps

Over these two laps be patient and keep the engine below 8,000 r.p.m. whilst bedding in your brake pads and disc. Only apply slight brake pedal pressure for approximately five seconds as this will start the friction and heat build up process. After each braking period rebuild your speed back up to 8,000 r.p.m. and repeat this 15 times each lap. Slowly you will feel the pad becoming stronger but that does not mean you can press the brake pedal harder. Keep the same pressure.  And at any point over these two laps do not allow the kart to stop.

On the 3rd Lap

Having now built up an adequate pad temperature it is now important to allow the pad materials to cool. Over this lap substantially decrease your speed to approximately by half the r.p.m. and absolute minimum brake pedal pressure this will allow the pads to cool down. Please be aware of your track position during this lap.
On the final 4th Lap

Re-build your engine speed to 10,000 r.p.m. and brake with moderate force that will reheat the pad material.You will now find the pads properly bedded in and ready for use. If you follow this bedding in method not only will your pads be operating at their peak performance, they will also last much longer. We have current users achieving 100 laps on the same brake pads before renewing.


 The whole bedding in process will take approximately 4 minutes.

Please Note: Do not allow the pad material to wear below 2mm


This Bedding In method can be utilised for any type of racing machine, just adjust the initial engine revolutions but watch the gear selection being used.


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Orange area = Resins boiled within material and raised to the surface of the pad material

Grey area = Un used pad material

Black area = Small fichers opened to allow resins to escape

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   Does  your brake pad surface look like this - Overheated - Throw away



Take CRG manuafactured brake pads


– made in Spain by a motorcycle brake pad manufacturer.What composition of
materials are used to produce their brake pads, are they compatible with the CRG
iron of the rotor / brake disc – NO.

– Made in Lithuania by a brake manufacturer who produces car brake pads (small
amount of motorsport experience in producing high performance materials) – are
their pads compatible with the iron compositions within the CRG rotor / brake
disc – NO.

Manufactured in South Korea (The Hankook Tire Group – Hankook brake division) Frixa has two types of brake pad production lines; 1 – Automotive and 2 – Motorsport plus, years of experience of producing hign end motorsport brake products – From F1 down to karting. It produces racing kart brake pads and rotors / brake discs and YES both components are compatibile with each other.

Understanding why brake pads are sanded down - De-Glazing 


Did you know many race car and race kart drivers, mechanic’s, team personnel of today (this
modern age of technology) believe that a newly inspected used brake pad that has a ‘shined up surface or glazed surface area’  is a glazed brake pad, but do not know why it has occurred?


Going through the steps

  1. Lack of braking performance
  2. Getting ‘brake fade’ on parts of the circuit
  3. Brake pedal feel, having to push pedal harder
  4. Slower pace on the circuit to compensate, due to having to increase brake zones
  5. Increased lap times (slower)
  6. Frustration with the speed / progress
  7. Poor & inconsistent qualifying
  8. Running mid pack
  9. Overall poor performance
  10. Poor results due to brake performing badly

So, you are now thinking about removing the brake pads because your braking performance lacks strength, lap times down etc?


Removing the pads from the calliper and noticed the pad material has numerous very small holes on the surface, and displays a shiny condition.


You instinctively reach for abrasive (sand/emery) paper, place the pad material face down on this abrasive paper, and start to rub the pad material with the paper to remove the shine. Then you look to the brake disc, it has a ‘sheen’ to it as well, so again you reach for an abrasive to “clean up” the disc.

The pads are then installed back into the caliper to perform the next practice / quail / race?

History of the brake pad materials in racing

In the old day's of early brake manufacturing, brake pad and brake shoe materials (1940’s
– 1970’s) were made from natural products.


Brake manufacturers had to anchor their pad or brake shoe material to the back plate or brake shoe with rivets, some of us remember this?


This type of composition of brake pad or shoe lining also had an amount of asbesto - now a banned product which used to be added within the material to cope with the extreme heat conditions of motor racing.


The asbestos fibres were exposed to extreme heat in race conditions; the layers of this material, used to 'fray' and when the race car came back into the pits, the brakes were nspected along with other components.


Many occasions the brake pads and shoes linings had small fibresof asbestos sticking up on the surface of the pad or shoe, these lose fibres had to be removed because if they were left in a‘fraying’ condition they would be exposed to extreme heat in the race and the brake lining (loose fibres) would eventually ignite and cause a wheel fire! So in the pit inspection process, the loose fibres would be removed from the brake pads and brake shoes with an abrasive 'paper'.


The pad and shoe material was then ‘sanded down’ using a flat surface to remove these loose fibres (with the brake shoes with a piece of abrasive 'paper' wrapped around a small block of wood) to 'sand' the fibres off of a curved shaped brake shoe.


This method of abrasive paper use is derived from this time / technology  period (1950 - 1970), and it has been past down from the old racers to the  young and so on etc.


History being repeated, when motor sport team personnel observe “shiny” pads, they assume that taking the abrasive paper to“De-glaze” the pad surface (take the shine off) is the standard procedure, BUT it is simply an old bad habit passed down and no more!


Today’s brake materials have had all the asbestos removed, due to the imposed health hazard associated with it, and man made products such as Silicon, Potassium Hexatitanate, Aramid Fibres twere iintroduced o replace the removed asbestos component.

If a modern day brake pad looks “shiny” or “glazed” it is because it has suffered Thermal Contamination and has prematurely overheated, so throw it immediately in the trash, and replace with new set of brake pads.


Premature overheating of the natural resins and minerals, in the modern day pad, cause them to actually boil within the composition of the material and the gases created by the boiling, escape out under pressure from within the material due to extreme premature heat as in a very hot sticky semi-liquid form.


 (As seen here in the photograph opposite)


These semi-liquids that emerge from the pad material, have been trapped between the pad material surface and the rotational direction of the brake disc, which is now, being exchanged onto the metal surface of the brake disc also creating the polishing effect of the pad and disc surface.


As you examine the pad material, look very closely within the pad surface area, if the pad has been subjected to premature overheating, it will have 'small fissures' (holes) that have opened up the surface of the pad.


This is always the result of premature overheating of the pad material, fissures leading to minute cracks forming between them leading to severe damage.


So, by taking the abrasive paper to the pad, you may have now created a disaster waiting to happen. By using abrasive paper on that “Shiny”/”Glazed” overheated pad material, and impregnating abrasive paper / graphite’s into the holes of the brake pad material.


(see photograph opposite)


The pad performance will show an improvement for one race lap, or until the extreme running temperatures are achieved and exceeded once more, resulting in degraded braking performance, that eventually will be amplified by 70% as you slowly destroy the total strength of the pad material completely.


 The moral of the story is; remember to always “BED IN”all new brake pads.



Take a day out and while you are testing / running an engine in etc, bed in  several sets new pads in the calliper and replace them back into the box.


So now you will have several sets of bedded in pads ready to go, all you have to do is, preheat the pad material once again in your initial slow / warm up lap.


Emery paper is a very hard rock type material used to make abrasive powder. It largely consists of the mineral corundum (aluminium oxide), mixed with other species such as the iron-bearing spinels hercynite and magnetite.(abraisives)

Industrial emery may contain a variety of other minerals and synthetic compounds such as magnesia, mullite,and silica.

It is black or dark gray in colour, less dense than translucent-brown corundum with a specific gravity of between 3.5 and 3.8. Because it can be a mixture of minerals, no definite Mohs hardness can be assigned: the hardness of corundum is 9 and that of some spinel-group minerals is near 8, but the hardness of others such as magnetite is near 6.

Crushed or naturally eroded emery (known as black sand) is used as an abrasive — for example, on an emery board, as a traction enhancer in asphalt and tarmac mixtures, or as used in mechanical engineering known as emery cloth.     
Emery cloth is a type of abrasive that has emery glued to a cloth backing. It is commonly
used in metalworking by hand. A finer, less commonly seen grade has a paper backing instead..........Is this what you want to do, to impregnate into your brake pad material, every time you ‘sand down’ or ‘de-glaze’ the surface of your brake pad, because the surface looks shiny in appearance.

Your brake pads have been severely over-heated (prematurely) because you failed to ‘run them in’ / ‘bed them in’ or, simply put, the pads and the rotor (brake disc) you are using
are not compatible materials to be used together. – Throw the brake pads away
and make another choice of brake pad compound.